Mountaineering lost one of its absolute brightest lights when an avalanche swept across Pakistan's 8,047-meter Broad Peak. Among those lost was Pur Bahadur Gurung, universally known as Yukta. His journey from a young boy dreaming of a British Gurkha career in Laprak, Gorkha, to a ten-time Everest summiter is the stuff of modern legend.
Last rites for the 37-year-old climber were performed with full state and community honours in Kathmandu. Family members, senior government officials, political figures, and hundreds of grieving mountaineers gathered at Swayambhu to say goodbye. It is a devastating blow to Nepal's climbing community, which is still reeling from the tragedy that took ten lives on the mountain at the end of July.
The Road From Porter to Peak Master
Yukta didn't start at the top. Born on December 24, 1988, his early ambitions pointed toward the military. When those plans shifted, he found himself working at a hotel in Manang. That hospitality job changed everything. Surrounded by trekkers and high-altitude guides, he caught the mountain bug.
He moved to Kathmandu and started at the absolute bottom of the ladder. In 2009, he worked as a porter, carrying heavy loads up rocky trails that would break most people. He didn't complain. He learned.
By 2011, he stood on top of Mount Everest for the first time. That wasn't enough. He went back again and again, summiting Everest ten times in total—a record-setting achievement for a non-Sherpa Nepali climber and the highest number for anyone from the Gurung community.
Breaking Records Where Others Stopped
Most climbers count themselves lucky to conquer Everest once. Yukta went on to bag twelve of the world's fourteen peaks above 8,000 meters. Think about that scale. Twelve mountains that routinely try to kill anyone who enters their death zones.
His resume features mind-boggling stats:
- Climbed K2 in Pakistan in a staggering 24 hours, stunning veterans of the sport.
- Conquered three separate 8,000-meter peaks in a single grueling season.
- Completed 28 total ascents on mountains above 8,000 meters.
Just months before his death, he earned his official International Mountain Guide certification through the rigorous IFMGA process via the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association. He was at the absolute peak of his professional capability.
The Broad Peak Tragedy
How did he end up on Broad Peak? Sometimes elite mountaineering comes down to bureaucratic walls. Yukta had originally planned to climb Shishapangma in Tibet, but failed to secure the necessary permits. Pivot required. He joined Nirmal Purja's Elite Exped team heading to Pakistan instead.
On July 30, disaster struck. A massive avalanche hit the expedition team on the slopes of Broad Peak. Ten climbers were swept away. Days of agonizing uncertainty followed before confirmation arrived that none had survived.
Search and rescue teams eventually recovered bodies from the base camp area, allowing repatriation. Qatar Airways flew Yukta's mortal remains back to Tribhuvan International Airport, where an emotional crowd of family and fellow guides awaited.
A Nation Says Farewell
The emotional weight at his funeral in Kathmandu was palpable. Home Minister Sudan Gurung, Nepali Congress President Gagan Thapa, and leaders of the Nepal Mountaineering Association joined relatives to pay their respects.
Traditional Buddhist rituals led by shamans took place after circumambulating the Swayambhunath Stupa, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Smoke from juniper incense drifted into the Kathmandu sky as loved ones honored a man who spent his life defying gravity.
Yukta’s death highlights the relentless danger of high-altitude mountaineering, even for the most seasoned professionals on earth. He leaves behind an unmatched legacy of grit, ambition, and quiet humility. The mountains keep his spirit now, but Nepal will not forget the porter from Gorkha who touched the sky.
